A Land of Ancient Temples

"It is of such extraordinary construction that it is not possible to describe it with a pen, particularly since it is like no other building in the world."António da Madalena

Cambodia is a land of many wonders. From the richness of the ancient landscape to the unwavering friendliness of the locals, there is no end to the list of reasons to visit this great region of Southeast Asia. Though the Khmer people have had their fair share of hardships, not the least of which is the most recent attempted genocide of the people by the Khmer Rouge dictator Pol Pot, the people have seemed to manage to keep a welcoming spirit to us humble travelers. The options for delicious street food go on for as long as the Mekong river itself, it seems. There is an architecture fused from traditional Cambodian (among other Asian influences) and French colonial that never ceases to intrigue as you walk the sometimes-too-narrow streets. So, as much as our focus of this post could zigzag as much as a Khmer tuk tuk driver, I would like to focus on the main reason I ever wanted to travel here in the first place: Angkor Wat.

Possibly one of the most recognizable structures in the world (it's on their flag!), Angkor Wat is but one of many temples that are scattered like architectural breadcrumbs throughout the northwest Cambodia area of Siem Reap. Whether or not a supreme being exists is beside the point, because when you walk through the chambers and galleries of this magnificent testament to human ingenuity, you can feel the millennium of worship and reverence simply oozing from its cobblestone paths and relief walls.

Vicky stands atop one of the outer courtyard staircases.

Originally a Hindu temple, it has been (like much of Southeast Asia) a Buddhist place of worship since the 12th century. Somehow, Buddhist monks of all ages manage to traverse the tricky walkways and hordes of tourists to do their daily routines. Speaking of those hordes of tourists, we at Checkpoint Chanislawski can't recommend enough to wake up early and catch a tuk tuk from your hotel and get to Angkor Wat for sunrise. This will allow you to be able to see the glorious sight of the sun slowly creeping over the towers to reveal the weathered stone and bathe the grounds in a quiet, magnificent glow. You'll also have the added bonus of rushing into the temple early to have the entire 1.6 million square meter complex to yourself for a while.

Who put this tree here?

A few things to remember. For one, Angkor Wat is only one of over a dozen awe-inspiring temples in the area for you to see. Each one brings its own uniquely impressive qualities. From the hundreds of incredibly detailed stone faces of Bayon, to the seemingly impossibly steep staircases of Ta Keo, to the sprawling strangler fig trees that grow in and out of Ta Prahm, the Angkor complex is a city of unique temples and you will need at least two days to explore them properly. Don't let this task be daunting to you. Enjoy it. Take your time and don't let any size crowd pressure you. Much like the wind, these temples are meant to be enjoyed hand in hand with serenity.

The many faces of Bayon Temple.

You will see the local people both in and around the temple trying to sell you goods from guidebooks, bottles of water, fresh coconuts, and clothing. Remember that this is their livelihood. If not interested, a polite, 'Otey Akun' (no thank you) will be appreciated. However, this will not stop most of them. They will try haggling with you. Just keep walking and repeating yourself. You will see musicians on many of the walkways playing some beautiful and quite appropriate music to enhance the mood. If you are so inclined, linger. Drop them some USD (or a few thousand Riel) for their efforts. However, never give in to beggars. Most will be children, taken out of school and encouraged to beg for a living. The Cambodian authorities will not stop them from doing this, but they urge tourists not to give the beggars money as it is a reason for the youth of Cambodia to not attend school and gain an education.

We'll meet you in the doorways to one of a thousand anti-chambers.

 Regardless, there is no end to architectural delight and human achievement around Angkor Wat. Dozens of temple complexes and thousands of tiny details await you to expand your world. Whether you relish each tiny stone carving or stand at the entrance to each complex in awe at the sheer scale of these gorgeous behemoths, let your inner-Indiana Jones out and go explore the largest playground known to man. Cambodia awaits you.

Another sunset witnessed by the stones with hopefully countless more to come...